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The following practical tips are designed to assist researchers traveling to Timor-Leste for the first time. These details are simply based on our experiences working here, and as always things change so please just take these as general tips. Please do not email us additional questions - we are not a travel service!
. Negotiating the Research Environment
. Getting to Dili
. Visas
. Communications
. Research Equipment
. Transport
. Money and Banks
. Climate and Clothes
. Health
. Cultural Norms
. Travel Websites
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Negotiating the Research Environment
The following represents some ideas concerning research conduct in Timor-Leste born from our experiences there as Globalism Institute staff. We welcome other suggestions, and hope that is what is written here provides a start in terms of guiding people with their research.
Timor-Leste can be a difficult environment in which to undertake research. For a researcher there are questions of security, infrastructure, and the challenges of a kind of social-institutional fluidity that demands both an ability to adapt very quickly and requires more time than researchers are often willing to accept. In turn, a number of East Timorese who work in NGOs are constantly sourced for interviews and advice which is often repetitive and a strain on their time. Research is also undertaken in communities where it is not clear how the research is of benefit back that community. We subscribe to the point of view that research conducted in Timor-Leste needs to be both of value or available to the communities which the research is about. This means that we are critical of a research approach where people simply come and take, and never seek ways to reciprocate or share their findings.
Researchers are advised to have a clear idea of what they would like to seek out and achieve during the course of their trip. This means having well-developed research questions and thought-out methods for seeking the required data but which can account for change and adaptation.
When seeking information from members of formal organizations, it can be initially difficult to make contact with the right people and to find the information you are after. This can be for various reasons: low usage of certain communication technologies; fluidity in organizations and staff; tight existing networks that operate on a very personal level; organizations running on few resources with the result that most staff seem to be very busy and overworked; language barriers; a certain jaded attitude towards researchers. Researchers are often seen as a drain on time and energy and criticized for coming in and out of Timor without feeding their research back. Strategies to help overcome these obstacles include:
. building relationships of trust, reciprocity and friendship with people over a period of time;
. ensuring you have researched as much as possible prior to an interview so the interview can be time-efficient, well-targeted and not wasting someone’s time by going over the same old ground (there is a plethora of information available in a range of languages on Timor);
. being able to clearly and quickly explain your research project in a manner that will engage the particular audience’s interest;
. explain how the research will be fed back into Timor;
. be patient and persistent and happy to deal with changes in appointments (but not pushy!);
. where possible developing language skills, even a little to socialize and break the ice. While English has strong usage among many formal organizations in Timor, many people don’t use it or feel more comfortable in Tetun, Indonesian or to a lesser extent Portuguese.
When seeking to engage localized grassroots communities, researchers must be mindful of the cultural norms and social hierarchies that govern access to communities by outsiders. It is strongly advised to carefully seek permission for the research project from government authorities and local leaders: the district / sub-district administrator, the xefe suku / xefe aldeia (village chiefs). Other leadership structures that you may choose to engage with before formally beginning your research project include: the church, local groups such as women’s and youth groups, traditional leaders such as liurai (keepers of the word). By doing this you will also often get a better sense of the community. In addition you may be given advice and assistance that will facilitate you moving forward with your research in an appropriate and effective manner, as well as establishing early on relationships of trust and consideration. Once again it is essential to be able to clearly communicate the objectives of your research project in a manner that will be understood and appreciated by the community. Also be aware of the various demands on communities at different times of the year. Harvesting season is very busy and means that adult community members will be spending much of their time in the fields.
There are of course many ways in which researchers, either academics or students, can direct their work back into Timor-Leste itself. Firstly, a great many theses simply sit on the shelves of different universities with only the examiner having read them. Circulate the thesis, even if limited to one particular language, to those who participated in the research, to organisations that may have an interest, and use email lists such ETAN or the Timor-Leste Studies Association. If you don’t want to circulate the entire study, make a really useful summary or short version and circulate that and even consider having it translated. If your work is done in a particular community that is isolated, then you should really consider returning to that community after your project has finished and handing over a completed version or explaining your findings. If you have come once to Timor for research you should be able to return to disseminate your findings. Other things we do include supporting teaching and education of individuals, particularly women, and also raising money for localised projects were possible. We find that the church is often a good way in which to dispense funds if you are able to make contact with a good local madre (nun) or padre (priest). Or finally, there is of course skill sharing. If you feel you have a set of skills that may be of assistance somewhere in Timor, look at working somewhere for a short time for free, or holding a workshop, and so on. In any case these kinds of activities end up helping your research in many ways!
Researchers also need to be comfortable with the idea that plans will inevitably need to be adaptable due to the fluidity of the environment and unanticipated factors. Patience, an ability to adapt, and a positive attitude are musts!
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Getting to Dili
There are currently two airlines serving Timor-Leste. The Indonesian airline Merpati flies to Dili from Denpasar, Bali most days of the week. In Dili, Merpati has an office in Dili at Landmark shopping centre on Comoro Rd.
The alternative airline is Airnorth which flies most days from Darwin, Australia.
We have used both airlines extensively and there are disadvantages and advantages to both of them.
Airnorth
In the case of Airnorth—famous for its inflight service of potato chips and chocolate bars—it is possible to leave on an early morning flight from most capitals in Australia in time to meet the afternoon Airnorth service leaving from Darwin, hence making it possible to be in Dili late in the afternoon of the same day.
The downside is that Airnorth is quite expensive for the one hour and forty minute flight, and flies very small planes (they seat about 28 people). This means that the airline is extremely strict on luggage. Their policy is that only the smallest items can be carried on board (4 kgs) and they guarantee checked in luggage of up to 13 kgs will come on the same flight as you, and won’t charge excess luggage for anything under 20 kgs. If you have 13 or more kilograms, very often passengers have to return to the airport the next morning to pick up the remainder of their luggage. Our tip is if you are carrying more than 13 kgs, split up your luggage into 2 bags – 1 carrying your essentials, and another carrying items that you can do without for the first 24 hours in Dili. Any excess baggage is heavily charged per kilogram and the airline is becoming increasingly inflexible on negotiations over this.
From our experience, Airnorth don’t run a particularly good service from the Dili end. When complaints are made about this to Airnorth in Australia, Airnorth has on occasion claimed that it cannot take responsibility for such service problems as the Dili operation is contracted out to a subsidiary company.
Finally watch out for the cheapest fares which are very often non-flexible (i.e. you can’t change the dates).
Merpati
While Merpati offers much larger planes and applies the normal standards regarding luggage, the disadvantage is that unless you are coming from Bali itself, the trip almost inevitably requires a stopover (if you see a stopover in Bali as being a disadvantage!). Also note that the regular fares sold from Dili are a 35-day fare only.
Land Travel
Land travel is possible via Kupang, West Timor. All going well it takes about 12 hours on the bus, and costs approximately US$17.00. Buses travel regularly and often overnight.
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Visas
Visas are available either on arrival at airport in Dili or at the land border at Batugade. A one month tourist visa costs US$30 and you must pay in American dollars.
For visa extensions go to the Ministry of Interior (near Tropical Bakery). You can either pay $35 for anything up to a 30 day extension or $70 for up to 60 day visa extension. The process takes approximately 1 week and you are required to have an East Timorese national support your application.
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Communications
There are very few telephone landlines used in Timor-Leste. Mobile phones are almost compulsory for anyone doing research and also for personal security. Check that your mobile phone is unlocked before you arrive (often Australian phones are locked to a particular network). There is only one network provider in Timor-Leste, Timor Telecom. Sim cards are sold at the Timor Telecom shops in Audian, Akait and Landmark (Comoro). Pre-paid phone credit is also available at Timor Telecom shops or is sold on the street, normally $5 credit costs $5, $10 costs $10 regardless of where you buy it, but sometimes the street vendors try to charge 10 per cent extra. You can also buy new and second hand mobile phones for reasonable prices (US$70) in Colmera.
Typically there is mobile coverage in all the major centres, but there are many locations across Timor-Leste where there is either extremely limited or no phone coverage.
There are now quite a number of internet services in Dili. Speeds can often be agonisingly slow and the computers in quite poor condition. Sugar Internet Café charges $6 per hour, while Timor Telecom shops are currently charging only $2 per hour. Some have scanners, headsets and web cameras. Internet access outside Dili is extremely limited.
For postal services, the post office is in Akait (at the Eastern end of Palacio do Governo). You must have a post box to receive mail there and the system is generally considered unreliable and slow. DHL have an office in Colmera. Generally the fastest you can get something to a place like Melbourne is a week.
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Research Equipment
Special care needs to be taken with the technology that researchers typically carry with them. A laptop, cameras, voice recorders and the like seem to suffer unusually in Timor from the combination of heat, humidity and dust. Hence it is advised to use good bags to carry equipment. Also it may help to keep in mind that it can be hard to find spares for your equipment or to get things repaired - if your lose your power cord for your laptop it is quite likely that you won’t be doing much writing up in country. Also ensure your virus software is up to date as there seems to be an enormous number of viruses transmitted both by internet and USB in Timor.
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Transport
Taxis
Standard prices for traveling around Dili is $1.00, however some taxi drivers will ask for $1.50. If coming from outer suburbs (such as Tasi Tolu or Kampung Baru) into the city it is appropriate to pay $2.00. It is often a good idea to secure a price before getting in the taxi. For security reasons it is advisable to avoid taxis with dark tinted windows, and usually people sit in the backseat (especially women traveling alone). Some expats living in Dili keep the phone numbers of taxi drivers who they trust and are able to call them and ask to be picked up if they find themselves in a difficult situation or need to travel at night time.
Buses
Buses link most of the regional capitals with Dili, though heavy rains will often cut roads and cause delays. For other destinations, it can be a matter of getting to a district capital and waiting for a truck, paying someone to take you on the back of a motorcycle, or walking.
Driving
One of the most important rules is that drivers are only concerned with what’s happening in front of them (i.e. drivers rarely look in rearview mirrors or often don’t even have them) so if you’re driving behind someone it’s your responsibility to second-guess what they might do. For example, if the person in front of you decides to turn right suddenly just at the moment when you start to overtake them on the right and you crash – it is your fault for trying to overtake, not the fault of the driver who didn’t indicate or check their rearview mirror before turning. This is an explanation of generally accepted driving rules, not the formal laws passed by the government!
Bicycles
If riding a bike in Timor it’s advisable to BYO tools to fix it (especially if riding in the Districts). Some bike riders complain of constantly getting flat tyres because of thorns on the road, they remedy this problem by bringing thicker tyres from Australia. Also BYO bike helmet.
Microlets
This is a mode of transport used mostly in Dili and Baucau and is similar to the Indonesian ‘bemo’, namely very small van/buses which normally carry way too many people. Typically one trip costs 10 cents and you just wait on the side of the road and wave it down. Tap with a coin on the roof inside when you want to get off. Differently numbered microlets travel on different routes.
Hiring Vehicles
There is only one place to hire vehicles in Dili - Rentlo on Comoro Rd (opposite Leader Supermarket). They have cars ranging from small sedans to large 4WDs.
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Money and Banks
The currency is the US dollar though several years ago Timor-Leste introduced its own coinage.
Banking is basically concentrated in Dili, so don’t plan on getting additional money while in non-Dili districts. There are three banks, the Australian ANZ bank, Bank Mandiri from Indonesia and BNR from Portugal. Services are generally slow and very expensive. The couple of ATMs that are in Dili are very often out of service and if you need to withdraw money from within a bank you need to give yourself considerable time as waiting periods can be considerable even if the bank isn’t busy.
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Climate and Clothes
Coastal Timor-Leste tends to be hot year round but inland can be very cold, especially in the higher mountains. While clothing can be quite informal around the home, in the office it is normally a matter of closed/formal shoes and no shorts (long pants). For church or formal events the attire is typically long pants for men, skirts for women. Dress is typically neat and conservative.
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Health
There are many chemists in Dili selling mainly drugs from Indonesia. Dentists are generally very difficult to find. Some embassies will either recommend particular doctors or will have a health service for their own nationals.
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Cultural Norms
Norms do change from place to place across the country so it’s best to be open and ask if you are not sure. If you are a guest at someone’s house you will almost always be served a drink and often people will wait for you to drink first as you’re the guest, then others will drink. When you’re finished it is polite to leave a bit at bottom of the glass; if you drink until the glass is empty it may be taken that you want some more. Equally it’s best to wait until dishes are taken from a table to indicate that you can (should!) leave—if you want to hurry the process up you can gesture that you need to move on and someone will generally hurriedly take the plates away.
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Travel Websites
You may find the following websites useful for general travel advice and background about Timor-Leste:
. The East Timorese Government's official tourism website: www.turismotimorleste.com/en/
. The Australian Government's official travel advice for Timor-Leste: www.smartraveller.gov.au/zw-cgi/view/Advice/East_Timor
. The commercial 'Discover Dili' tourism site: www.discoverdili.com
. Lonely Planet: www.lonelyplanet.com/worldguide/destinations/asia/east-timor
. WikiTravel: wikitravel.org/en/East_Timor
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